If you've measured your head and found that you're exactly at 22 inches, you're likely wondering what size cowboy hat is 22 inches so you can finally pull the trigger on that new Stetson or Resistol. To keep it simple right out of the gate, 22 inches usually converts to a size Small or a hat size of 7. However, as anyone who has ever tried on a pair of jeans from three different stores knows, "standard" sizing isn't always as standard as we'd like it to be.
Finding the right fit for a cowboy hat is a bit more involved than just picking a letter off a rack. Since these hats are often made of stiff materials like fur felt or treated straw, there isn't a whole lot of "give" to them. If you get it wrong, you're either going to have a headache within twenty minutes or you'll be chasing your hat across a parking lot the first time a light breeze picks up.
Understanding the conversion math
Most people are used to buying hats in small, medium, or large. In that world, a 22-inch head is almost always a Small. But if you're looking at high-quality western wear, you'll see numbers like 6 7/8, 7, or 7 1/8. This is the "fitted" sizing system, which is actually based on the diameter of your head if it were a perfect circle (which, spoiler alert, nobody's head is).
For a 22-inch circumference, you are sitting right at a size 7. If your measurement is just a hair under 22 inches—say, 21 5/8 inches—you might want to drop down to a 6 7/8. If you're a tiny bit over, a 7 1/8 might be the way to go. It's always better to have a hat that's a fraction too big than one that's too small, because you can easily shim a big hat to fit better, but stretching a small hat is a whole different headache.
Why head shape matters more than you think
Here is where things get a little tricky. You could have two people with a 22-inch head measurement, and the same size 7 hat will fit them completely differently. This is because cowboy hats come in different "ovals."
Most quality hat manufacturers build their hats in a Long Oval, Medium Oval, or Round Oval shape. If you have a "Long Oval" head—meaning your head is longer from front to back and narrower at the sides—a standard round hat might pinch your forehead while feeling like there's a gap at your temples. If you're buying a hat that's 22 inches but your head is a distinct long oval shape, you might actually need to size up slightly or look specifically for a brand known for that shape.
How to measure properly (and not mess it up)
I've seen plenty of people try to measure their head with a stiff metal construction tape. Please, don't do that. You won't get an accurate reading, and you'll probably just frustrate yourself. You want a soft, flexible tailor's tape. If you don't have one, just use a piece of string, mark where it overlaps, and then lay the string flat against a ruler.
When you measure, you want to go about an inch above your eyebrows and just above your ears. This is exactly where the sweatband of the hat is going to sit. Don't pull the tape so tight that it's squeezing your skin, but don't let it sag either. Just a nice, snug fit. Do it two or three times to make sure you're getting the same number. If you keep hitting that 22-inch mark, then a size 7 is your target.
Felt vs. Straw: Does the material change the size?
You might think that if you're a size 7 in a felt hat, you're a size 7 in a straw hat. In theory, that's true. In reality, straw hats have almost zero stretch. They are usually heavily lacquered to keep their shape and survive the heat, which makes them quite stiff.
Felt hats, especially those with a high beaver content, are a bit more forgiving. They can mold to the shape of your head over time as they pick up the moisture and heat from your skin. If you're right on the edge of what size cowboy hat is 22 inches, and you're buying a straw hat for the summer, I'd almost always recommend leaning toward the slightly larger size. You can always tuck a little bit of foam or folded paper behind the sweatband to snug it up, but a straw hat that's too tight will never "break in" the way a felt one will.
The "Two Finger" rule for a perfect fit
Once you get your hat, there's a simple test to see if that 22-inch measurement translated correctly to the physical product. Put the hat on. It should stay in place if you shake your head slightly, but it shouldn't feel like a vice grip.
A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to slide one finger between the hat's sweatband and your head. If you can fit two fingers easily, it's probably too big and will fly off the moment you go faster than a brisk walk. If you can't even get a fingernail in there, you're going to get a "hat headache" pretty quickly. Western hats are meant to be worn all day, so comfort is king.
Is 22 inches a kids' size or an adult size?
This is a common question because 22 inches is right on the border. In the world of hat sizing, 22 inches (Size 7) is considered a "Small" in adult men's sizing. However, it's also a very common size for older children and teenagers.
If you are shopping for a child and they measure 22 inches, they have likely graduated out of the "Youth" sizes and are ready for an adult Small. Just keep in mind that adult hats often have wider brims and taller crowns, which can sometimes look a bit overwhelming on a younger person even if the "hole" for the head fits perfectly.
Adjusting a hat that's just a bit off
Let's say you bought the hat and it's a size 7, but it feels just a little bit loose. Don't worry, this is actually how most pros prefer their hats. You can buy "hat reducer" foam strips that stick inside the inner band. These are great because you can place them exactly where you need them—like just on the sides if you have a long oval head.
If the hat is just a tiny bit too tight, a hat stretcher can work wonders on felt. You can pick one up for about twenty bucks. You just put it inside, crank it out a bit, and let it sit. If you add a little steam from a kettle to the area, the fibers will relax and "set" in the new, slightly larger position.
Final thoughts on getting the right fit
At the end of the day, knowing what size cowboy hat is 22 inches is just the starting point. While the answer is a size 7 or a Small, the way that hat actually feels on your brow depends on the brand, the shape of your skull, and whether you're opting for felt or straw.
If you can, always try to buy from a place with a good return policy, or better yet, visit a local western wear shop. There's nothing quite like having a pro "shape" the hat to your specific head. But if you're ordering online, stick with the size 7 and keep some sizing tape handy just in case. Once you find that perfect fit, you'll forget you're even wearing it—which is exactly how a good cowboy hat should feel.